Florence Journal

Bartolini rumors

We have heard some rumors that Florence institution Dino Bartolini may possibly be closing. For cooks and Florentines this would be a disaster - Florence without Bartolini is hard to imagine. The effects of the "crisis" (as the Italians I know so readily call it) here in Florence can not be exaggerated - people may want to pretend that not much has changed, but it obviously has, and continues to. Just because the same statues have been in place for 500 years, it doesn't mean other things don't change - today at the top of Via Maggio we saw no less than 5 commercial spaces for rent in the space of 100 meters.

End of season sale at LUISAVIAROMA

Big sale going on at this famous Florence boutique:

Last chance to see "Candida Höfer in Florence" this weekend

The exhibit "Candida Höfer in Florence" at the Palazzo Medici closes on the 24th - I know what I am doing at lunch hour tomorrow!

De Chirico, Magritte, Max Ernst and Balthus at the Palazzo Strozzi

"A Look Into The Invisible" will be the next exhibit opening at the Palazzo Strozzi on February 26th. I am anxiously looking forward to this exhibit as it features a few of my favorite painters in De Chirico, Ernst, and Magritte - and supposedly will have some of De Chirico's early major works.

I wrote my senior art history paper on a specific work by Ernst also. Exciting stuff!

Annual Vintage Clothing Show

The annual vintage clothing show at the Stazione Leopolda is coming up at the end of January. Their website is only in Italian and a bit of a disaster to navigate (frames, hello! It is 2010), but the image below has most of what you need to know:

English Language Movie schedule for January and February

The Cinema Odeon off Piazza Strozzi shows movies in English (they call it "original sound") 3 nights a week. The schedule for January and February is posted on their site.

Florence Fashion Notes

Fashion is a big part of Florence, and the Pitti Uomo show is one of the biggest deals of the year. In a week where this town would probably be pretty dead otherwise, there is actually a lot going on, especially if you are in the fashion world and/or a party person/creature of the night. Tonight at LUISAVIAROMA there was a book signing by famous fashion blogger Scott Schuman (the Sartorialist) and his friend Garance Doré:

The real party was starting much later I'm sure.

Riots in Calabria

This is a pretty complex story no doubt:

ROSARNO, Italy — The official figures show there are 1,600 agricultural workers in this town, all but 36 of them Italians. The reality, exposed by the raw and violent riots here last week, was far different: Some 1,200 foreigners, most of them Africans, earned about $30 a day under the table picking oranges and clementines. Now that the town is largely cleared of foreign labor, the fruit remains on the trees.

More here and here.

Agriturismo in Tuscany

We get a lot of questions about where to stay in Tuscany, especially in wine country. Here are a few suggestions of places we know and highly recommend:

Borgo Casa al Vento - the owner is a good friend and the property and wine are great. This is in Gaiole, so if you want a base closer to Siena than Florence and the wine country south of there (Montepulciano, Montalcino) it is a great choice - and you are still in the heart of Chianti Classico. Suites, rooms, and a villa are available. Pictures of the 2009 harvest here.

Fattoria Corzano e Paterno - fantastic family run winery and farm, they make exceptional sheep's milk cheese from their own herd, as well as excellent wine. Closer to Florence if you want to take in the sights of the city. A "real" agriturismo - this is a working operation! See video below for a little more insight.

Fattoria Rignana - one of the first places I fell in love with in Chianti. Just on the edge of Panzano, deep in the woods, the wine is amazing, as is the villa, with its own chapel and fantastic pool overlooking a valley full of vineyards, olive groves, and the hills beyond. Breakfast served outdoors in season. Great restaurant nearby. Pictures of the 2008 harvest here.

For all of the above I would definitely rent a car.

Florence Snow Storm Video

Florence in the snow at night, from December 18, 2009:

Bigger version here.